Tuesday, 29 April 2014

Shikarpur the city of Souls

                The built of Shikarpur is told about 1617 A.D. Hijri 1026. First time the discovery about Shikarpur was came in the journey of Captain Alexander Burnes "A Voyage on Indus travels in to Bukhara", then the theory of Alexander was revised in the report of Captain F.G. Gold Smid "A historical memories on Shikarpur"، it is "The late Sir Alexander Burnes records Hijra 1026 as the year in which Shikarpur was built, this corresponds with Anno Domini 1617, and it is ascertained by Ghok or Frog (Marking a marshy neighbourhood) to be found in the mosque of Haji Fakeerullah Alavi, out side the Lakhi Gate of town.
Historically speaking, it is said that in the 17th century Shikarpur was actually a land full of forests and a favourite hunting ground (Shikar Gaah) of the Mirs. But in fact, the ancient city of wealthy and prosperous Shikarpur was a seat of civilisation, culture, trade and commerce. It acquired political and economic importance because of its strategic location on the map of Sindh, being directly accessible to those who came from Central and West Asia through the Bolan Pass. As caravans of traders and merchants passed through that route, Shikarpur developed trade and commerce with the world whose links extended to far of places.
District Shikarpur, with an area of 2640 square kilometers, It is divided in four "taulkas": Shikarpur, Lakhi, Garhi Yasin and Khanpur. Its borders meet with districts of Larkana, Jacobabd, Khairpur & Sukkur. Two National Highways (N-65 & N-55) intersect in the city of Shikarpur, so it can well be termed as,one of the junction points of the four provinces.
Shikarpur, the seat of civilisation, culture, trade and commerce acquired political and economic importance because of its strategic location on the map of Sindh, being directly accessible to those who came from Central and West Asia through the Bolan Pass. In the early 17th century this emerald city in the northern Sindh province of Pakistan became the nucleus of a historical trade center on a caravan route through the Bolan Pass into Afghanistan. Shikarpur became the core of manufactures including brass and metal goods, carpets, cotton cloth, and embroidery. Its great bazaar (covered because of the summer heat) is famous throughout Turkistan and southern Asia.Shikarpuri Bhaibands are the pioneers of the financial instrument called 'Hundi' or Promissory-Notes as known in banking arena. The trade links of Shikarpuris were spread all over to Geneva, Rome, Iran, Iraq, Samarkand, Sumatra, Japan, Burma, Honolulu, etc. There was a branch of Central Bank of Asia in Bajaj Street in Shikarpur, which testified to these links.
District Shikarpur was once famous for education and other civic amenities throughout undivided India until the first half of the 20th Century. Rai Bahadur Udhaudas Tarachand Hospitial is one of the precious place of the city where the name of the philanthropist on placed on the floor, Hiranand Ganga bai Ladies Hospital, Chela singh & Seetaldas ( C&S ) College which was built in 1933. It was inaugurated by the governor of Bombay as Sindh was a part of Bombay province at that time.
Two old High Schools now known as school No:1 & 2 and Girls College and lakhidar primary school here, are some dignified and marvelous towers, showing outstanding standards of Shikarpurians during that era.
 As per Professor Israr Ahmed Alvi, Shikarpur was the first in Pakistan to get an independent power plant more than a century ago. It belonged to a Hindu trader and used to provide the city an uninterrupted supply.
Shikarpur was originally a planned city, where all its seven doors and window closed after 8 p.m. For security the city was then protected by Eight gates. 
1.    Lakhi Dar (Gate)
2.    Hazari Dar
3.    Hathi Dar
4.    Wagno Dar
5.    Sivi Dar
6.    Karan Dar
7.    Naushero Dar
8.    Khanpuri Dar
     & one window Named Sidique marrhi.


Lakhi-Dar was another place where in the evening people would flock together to roam, stroll, eat, drink (soft drinks - thadal, lassi, milk) and make merry. The Moti Kulfi was a famous treat which nobody could omit; while in Shikarpur, if one does not see Lakhi Dar, one has not seen Shikarpur at all. In fact, it was the nerve center of the city. The old jamiya masjid of shikarpur is on lakhidar.
The happy scenes around bazaars, Sind canal, bungalows with bath tanks, gardens with beautiful flowers, food, that neither those people nor those scenes can be seen today. Everything is in ruins and shambles. There were so many other places of interest. The important being, 'Dhak Bazar' and 'Shahi Baugh'. In fact, 'Dhak Bazar' was the architectural marvel. It was the longest bazar covered with woodwork (pure teak), creating a feeling of being air conditioned even in the hottest of summers. 'Shahi Baugh' was the biggest and the most beautiful garden with thousands of variety of flowers and the pavilion therein of Goethic lines of architecture.


Cultural minded Shikarpuris were fond of and knowledgeable about classical music. There was a Natak Sabha theatre on the bank of Beggary Canal surrounded by pipal trees where during the days of Holi (seven days) they used to organize 'Hando' of holi. Renowned and famous artistes from Sindh and India like Waman Rao, Patwardhan, Pandit Vyas, Omkarnath, Khan Sahib Mubarak Ali, Bade Ghulam Ali Khan, singers like - Kajari Inayat Bai and Mukhtiar Begum, were invited to sing and the people used to listen to them for days together. They were duly respected and flooded with costly gifts. They were accommodated with due care in the bungalows of Hindu seths. Thakurdas Nagrani, Sessions Judge, Aga Sufi, Maharaj Tej bhandas and others established the first dramatic society - Dharamupkars Amateurs Society. 
In the field of literature also Shikarpur was in the forefront. It produced vedantic titans like Saami, one of the three pillars, 'TRIMURTI' - Shah, Sachal and Saami of Sindhi poetry. Saami wrote his slokas in popular idioms for the masses. 4000 such slokas were later found by Prof. Jhamandas, though earlier about 2100 were already published in Sindhi.
Saami (A Sindhi form of Swami) was a born in Shikarpur, Sindh. He was one of the three most beloved Sindhi sufis  (1743-1850)and the greatest poets that the ancient land of sindh has ever produced. Saami (1743-1850 AD) his full name is Bhai Chain Roy. He was a rich merchant in the heyday of Shikarpur, one who traveled far and wide but lived a simple life with few possessions, giving away his wealth in good works.
There were many places of worship but Khatwari Darbar is singularly important, as its founder was Baba Gurdas a descendant of Sikhs and who had miraculous powers of turning sand into sugar. Besides there was a folden khat (charpai) in that darbar and therefore Khatwari Darbar. It was well decorated inside with beautiful artwork and paintings of that period. It is through the social activities of successive mahants that it acquired name and fame. These mahants were distributing daily tons of grains to animals and birds and chappatis to the poor and needy of all religions alike. Even drinking water facilities were provided for animals also at many places in the city. By nature Shikarpuris religious bent of mind and are charitable.
 Professor Anwar Figar Hakro has prepared a map of the Shikarpur city from 80 years ago. He estimates its population was not more than 50,000 at that time.
 The first ever eye hospital in the subcontinent was built in Shikarpur in 1910 known as
Hospital named “Heeranand Charitable Eye Hospital“. The reason behind this great activity was to help those who could not help themselves. In starting days, all expenses beard by a philanthropist himself. After his death, Henry T. Holland and Church Missionary Trust Association, London had looked after it. Dr. Henry Holland worked hard and ran hospital in organized way, he endow his life for patients. He performed himself more than 60,000 operations for cataract, alone. Since 1920 about 150 eye specialists have come from different areas of Pakistan, India, the Continent, the United Kingdom and the United States of America to learn and work at this hospital. They beard all expenses including accommodation to get the privilege to work here. His indefatigable services for the hospital, it renamed as “Sir Henry Holland Christian Eye Hospital”.

Shikarpur is also famous for Soomro family whose members have always played a key role in Pakistan’s politics. In pre-partition days, Khan Bahadur Allah Bux Soomro was a key politician of Sindh. He got elected as Chief Minister of Sindh but was assassinated while going in his horse driven carriage in Shikarpur on 14 May 1944. Sardar Maula Bux Soomro was the Central Minister for Rehabilitation in 1957. His son Illahi Bux Soomro was a senator and his grandson Mohamed Mian Soomro had been the Chairman Senate.
Shikarpur has produced several renowned people. These include politicians like Sir Ghulam Hussain Hidayatullah, the1st Governer of Province Sindh, Barrister, Ghuos Bux Khan Mahar, Imtiaz Shaikh, Dr.Ibrahim Jatoi, Iftikhar Soomro, Aftab Shahban Mirani, Former Defense Minister, Agha Siraj Khan Durani and others.
Among well-known poets Shaik Ayaz. Well-known writers include Agha Saleem, Badam Natawan, Moonis Ayaz and others.

Other renowned personalities include Professor Dr. Anwar Figar Hakro, who is a renowned scholar with several books to his credit, Professor Israr Ahmed Alvi and Shahab Osto. In the field of medicine, Dr. Younis Soomro (Orthopedic Surgeon) and Dr. Rufina Soomro (Breast Cancer Specialist) are prominent names due to their expertise and accomplishments. In the field of music, Bedil Masroor and Shaman Mirali have made a mark in singing.

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